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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #251 
Helen - Welcome!  You've come to a place where there's lot's of helpful folks and helpful info.  
Please post your refurbishing when you get to it.
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #252 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mavis
Thanks, Chaly, for clarifying that for me!  I'm learning, gradually![wink]


So am I!  Always lots to gain from everyone's experiences.
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seb58

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Reply with quote  #253 
Chaly this is amazing work!


All the metal parts of my recently acquired 66K were covered in what I think was a mixture of rust and dried oil. I cleaned it up fine using rubbing alcohol and brass cleaning product with 0000 steel wool but the metal is not shiny like the other Singers, as if the parts were given a matte finish... Any idea how to boost the shine? 

Also, I see you all do wonders with Evapo-Rust but unfortunately in France it is not an option or at least not a cheap one (40$ for 1 liter) would you know of any alternative product? 
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pgf

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Reply with quote  #254 
I believe vinegar will work.  You should do some research (because I haven't :-) ) to see what the downsides might be, compared to a commercial product like Evapo Rust.  I have a friend who restores old axes, and it's what he uses, but since he's working with black iron, his requirements are a bit different than ours.

You can also use electrolysis, but again, not sure how it interacts with nickel or chrome finishes.  A big advantage is that you can do very big pieces that way.  And again, haven't used it myself, but I think Steve said he's used it quite a bit.

As for your final shine -- I've had good results using a brass wire wheel.  I usually mount the wheel on my drill press, and hold the part to it, but sometimes, if the part is still on the machine (e.g., a spool pin) I'll very carefully use the wheel in a hand drill.  But it's easy to lose control when doing that, and bump a painted surface, so I try and avoid it, unless I'm tired and not thinking straight.  Great results then! ;-) :-/

I usually use a metal polish, and use the wire wheel to "buff" it off.  I was surprised how much shinier the results tend to be, over using steel wool by hand.  (I'm a fan of "Wright's Brass Polish" -- I feel like it rinses off more easily than Brasso.  I understand availability might be different for you.)

These are the brushes I have.  Mainly I use the three flat brushes (mostly the middle one), though I did wrap some tape around the outside of the smallest "bound" brush one time, to get into a small space.    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F692G25

paul

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ke6cvh

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Reply with quote  #255 
Hi Group,

  I also want to send congrats on the really awesome work in restoration and the even more awesome elmering (teaching in HAM radio lingo).

  Yes, vinegar is supposed to work for dissolving rust but folks actually add salt to it which is contrary to common sense because salt causes metal to rust so well but without the oxygen the salt and vinegar are synergetic and then later after the solution is washed off the rust is scrubbed off.  All  vinegar is definitely not the same.  I buy a vinegar (that I thought was made from coconuts but the Mrs. corrected me) that is made locally from palm trees (unsure what variety but we have at least on our property of the right type).  It is not easy to make so I just buy it by the gallon as it is used preparing meat for cooking different dishes.  I've found this vinegar way way stronger than store bought clear vinegar and if I was to remove rust I would not use the weakened store bought vinegar but this stuff instead.  

  Another product that really works wonders is the "rust converter" that I can get by the liter.  This stuff really works well and I've used it to treat cast iron treadle bases after wire brushing them then painting and it did not rust even 2-3 years later.  I think this stuff is phosphoric acid based (there are different types and I read but no longer can find a web page from the US park service where they tested different types of rust converter on cast iron fences in historic sites where they all weren't the same in performance).  It is available in the smallest of hardware stores by the liter and that would be a good option for large stuff like treadles.  edited to add....the rust converter is under 2 dollars a liter here so it remains my choice because of low cost and ease of getting by walking to the hardware store in the barrio three houses down :-)

  Back when eBay was brand new I met a seller that was restoring old tools and anything else he could get his hands on who used electrolysis.  This is the number 1 method of removing rust but it is not as simple as using something like evaporust (which I've never used and not available here in this country).  If I was to have a setup the electrolysis is the way I'd go for certain.  I chatted with him and he used a bathtub in his operation.  Once set up the electrolysis did all the work for him leaving the metal behind with zero damage from the process.  He told me the rust would turn black that was not removed already and I'm assuming it can then be wire brushed off.

Best regards,
Mike
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seb58

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Reply with quote  #256 
Thank you for the wealth of information Paul and Mike! I will certainly process it all and see what option is available to be locally. I've been toying with the idea of getting myself a dremmel with an assortment of brushes, maybe this could do the trick. As for vinegar, I've not tried it yet; I've tried salt of sorrel diluted in warm water; it works but appears to be quite strong so pieces need to be rinced with a baking soda solution or anything basic to stop the acid working. Of course it is not recommandable on nickel plated pieces.

What you're saying Paul about the person restoring axes is really interesting to me because I've "inherited" plenty of old (even antique) tools with the house, mainly gardening tools and sickles and I was wondering how to remove some of that rust. But that would be off-topic [wink]
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Ziggy

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Reply with quote  #257 
Wondering if anyone can assist Bags and me with this recently-acquired 301.  It's generally in very good shape and required very little in the way of cleaning and nothing on it shows signs of rust.

However, even prior to removing the dust and cat hair, I noticed that the bed was a bit blotchy.  Thought it might disappear after cleaning, but it didn't.  The following is not a great photo (no matter what setting I use, it won't get clearly into focus), but it generally shows what I'm talking about.

Is this something to do with the finish decoupling from the aluminum?  (I assume the whole thing is aluminum...)  Is this something that has happened/is happening that is somehow degrading the finish?  Something spilled on it 25 years ago?  Is there anything that could/should be done about it or would it be best to ignore it?

IMG_1227.jpg 


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Cari-in-Oly

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Reply with quote  #258 
I used to use Blue Magic TR3 resin Glaze to clean and polish my machines until I couldn't find it any more. my tan 301 looked like this when I got it too. The TR3 worked for removing most of it.

Cari

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Ziggy

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Reply with quote  #259 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly
until I couldn't find it any more.


Well, of course.

Thanks for the tip.  Any idea generally what is/was in the product?  Resin glaze?  Doesn't sound familiar.

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OurWorkbench

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Reply with quote  #260 
I just ordered some from Amazon, earlier this month and it has gone up from $16.79 (when I ordered) to $19.44 (tonight).  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOKO4W/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=27053781123&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=624041070811907844&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=nav_ya_signin&


It has a different lid than what is pictured.

Janey

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Cari-in-Oly

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Reply with quote  #261 
It's just a car cleaner/polish. It was over 10 years ago when I first bought it, only one auto parts store close to me carried it. A few years later when I went ot get more they told me Blue Magic had been sold and TR3 had been discontinued. What he really meant was that O'Reilly's was no longer carrying it. I've had other people tell me they've found it locally or online, so maybe it's still out there. I bought something else and just haven't looked for the TR3 again.

Cari

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Ziggy

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Reply with quote  #262 
Cool, I'll check it out!  Thanks!
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ttatummm

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Reply with quote  #263 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OurWorkbench
I just ordered some from Amazon, earlier this month and it has gone up from $16.79 (when I ordered) to $19.44 (tonight).  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOKO4W/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=27053781123&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=624041070811907844&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=nav_ya_signin&

Janey


Janey,

I am so glad you posted this! After hearing great things about this product, several months ago I looked all over the web trying to find it.  Amazon was out of stock, no auto parts places had it. I found some on Ebay at exorbitant prices (I wasn't going pay), which is what happens when something is discontinued. So I thought it had been discontinued. Going to order some right now.

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Ziggy

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Reply with quote  #264 
So out of morbid curiosity I checked the msds for the TR3.  It's basically sewing machine oil, kerosene, and diatomaceous earth.  The last ingredient is silica (shells of near-microscopic, single-celled aquatic species--sorry--I'm a geologist, can't stop myself).  That's an abrasive, albeit a very fine-grained one.  Y'all OK with scraping off some of the finish?  I mean, it's probably not much loss if one doesn't over-do it, but still...kinda makes me a bit nervous somehow.

But then, I was raised by somebody who would invent a crisis if there wasn't one readily available!

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