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GuidCA

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Reply with quote  #1 
I picked up this vintage Kenmore "Solid State" foot controller. It has that really well-made, older Japanese product feel so I'd like to adapt it by replacing the Kenmore plug with a standard two prong Singer plug, so that I can use it with Singer or other machines to test motor function etc.

Here's the FC:
1 top.jpg  2 nameplate.jpg
This FC includes the power cord that plugs into the AC receptacle. (The following pics are taken with live power.)

I don't know the terminology for the plug elements, but the plug that would attach to the machine has three-pin arrangement. The center pin appears to be neutral, and in this pic the top pin makes a 120v circuit that is always on ( I assume for the lamp.)
3 120v always on for lamp.jpg 
When I put the positive probe into the lower receptacle, I get NO voltage without depressing the FC.

4 no press no volts.jpg 
When I depress the FC, I get around 10 volts:
5 press get 10 volts.jpg 


1. Am I reading this correctly? Does an electronic foot controller sense that there is no load and so doesn't deliver power unless it's connected to a motor?

2. Can I cut off the plug that connects to the machine/motor on this FC assembly and attach a standard Singer two-prong plug, and use this solely as a foot controller alongside a power cord on machines set up that way?

3. It's not visible in the pictures but the cord from the FC to the plug has THREE wires. Why is that?

4. If I can use this FC as I hope to, how do I wire it to a TWO-PRONG Singer plug?

Thanks for bearing with me!
Brian




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Brian
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #2 
Brain, I am a tad confused. To me a 'standard' Singer plug is a three prong plug. Singer used three prong plugs from about 1924 well into the 60's (UK 201s). Which Singer plug are you speaking of? The three prong Kenmore obviously went to a three pin connector - much like the old Singer Bakelite plugs. Usually... the power source plug lead went to two of the three contacts.

If we lined them up like: o  o  o,
then one wire from the power source cord would go to the far right 'pin' and one to the far left 'pin' in the plug when you connected it and the middle shouldn't have anything.

Inside the connector
one wire from the pedal would go the far right, and the other to the middle.
One motor lead would go to the middle, and then the far left.
One light wire would go the far right, and one to the far left.

The Singer power cord would only have two wires.

Later on... they did away with this and ran the power lead through the pedal . Except... when they got to the pedal they needed three leads to come out of the pedal, even though only two were needed to go into the pedal. One wire out of the pedal had to have gone through the rheostat and is on it's way to the motor... a second 'hot' would have to come out of the pedal that did not go through the rheostat to power the light... and the third is the return.

Theoretically I would think that you should be able to use the Kenmore pedal solely as a foot controller alongside a power cord... if you can isolate which of the two hot leads were which. One should be constant, and other dependent upon the rheostat.  You'll have to cap the constant.

If that makes any sense... (I don't know the language, but I can figure it out)

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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #3 
It might be best to open fc, see if it is 2 wire. The third wire might just go to lamp power.


It takes a load more than meter, to trigger the triac for control.

About 2 prong Singer plug. Wall plug? Or 1/4" round jack connectors found on 99 and 128 knee controller machines before - 1924?

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GuidCA

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Reply with quote  #4 
Here's what I mean by "two prong Singer FC cord". Apologies for the bad pic, taken from the web...
Vintage singer 2 prong FC plug.jpg 


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GuidCA

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Reply with quote  #5 


QUOTE=Kitcarlson
It takes a load more than meter, to trigger the triac for control.

Thanks, Kit. I don't know what a "triac" is, but that makes sense that when that is triggered the full power is available to the motor. That would explain why just reading it with a voltage meter shows 10 volts (not connected to a load.)

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Brian
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #6 
These typical SM wiring diagrams may help... (or not!)

http://www.doubleveil.net/zssmp/resources.htm#wiring

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Kitcarlson

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Brian,

Can't help on 2 prong plug, never seen one of those.

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidCA
Here's what I mean by "two prong Singer FC cord". Apologies for the bad pic, taken from the web...
Vintage singer 2 prong FC plug.jpg 


I'm fairly certain you can undo the controller from the Singer plug and put the Kenmore controller on it. However, that plug is only for the FOOT CONTROLLER for "Singer 401, 403, 404, 410A, 403A, 301*, 301A*
*Note- Some 301's do not use this type of cord set, they use the Singer double lead cored set (123)." per https://shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-w-Cord-Singer-301-401-403-404-SCE197628-168EZ.htm

The Kenmore is a double lead cord Similar to the 3 pin on many Singers, including 15-91, 221, 201, etc. (So that only one plug goes into the machine, one cord goes to the power outlet and the other cord goes to the controller.)

I'm not sure of what you are asking. I think someone set up a motor block type to test different machines, but not sure. John made a "precision controller" so that a foot or knee controller is not needed to run the motor. He set it to run a motor steadily for and extended period after oiling and exercise a motor that had been sitting for a long time. Maybe he will someday do a thread about it. He took it to the June 1, 2019 Colorado Get-together. https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/colorado-gettogether-9499001?&trail=100


Janey

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