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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #1 
I've just finished cleaning up my Singer 101.

All old oil and grease removed and cleaned up from all moving parts and gears. I re-oiled with Triflow and used regular SM oil on the wicks.  The wicks are working nicely.

I removed the motor, cleaned the brushes (they were quite good) and commutator - see photo,. General cleaning on the motor case, etc.  I then replaced the grease wicks and used original Singer Motor Lub (I had an old tube and the grease was still white so I think it good) to fill the motor grease cups.

All other gears I greased with vaseline (as per the original manual).

I cleaned the wire light tube and coated with vaseline - turned out great.

All wiring is actually in great shape - so no need for a motor or light rewire.

The only thing I could not do is remove the screws to disassemble the bobbin case.  I tried TriFlow - PB blaster - heat, etc but the screws do not budge after about a week of trying. I cleaned this area as best I could and daily give a bath with TriFlow.e

The motor runs great - nice response and no noise.  But I am getting a grinding sound at about medium speed.  At low speed - no sound.  When I bring up the speed the grinding sound starts.  At full speed I can't really hear it.  It sounds like it may be coming from the bobbin area but hard to tell.  It is definitely not from the motor.  I have run at full speed for a full minuets and then back down and no change.

Any ideas?  I am thinking since the bobbin case was not disassembled maybe there is dirt in there that is causing this grinding.  I don't know where else it could be coming from - everything looks like it is moving smoothy and everything but the bobbin case area has been thoroughly cleaned and re-lubricated.
Singer101motor.jpg 

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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #2 
It's a hollow grinding sound, sounds like it's about in the bobbin case, varies with speed. On mine it was the transitional gears inside the front cup. I went in with q-tips and a tiny crochet needle (dedicated to the tool box, practically a dental pick) and scraped/cleaned out each gear tooth. Re-greased it all and capped and noise is almost gone. If I wasn't listening for exactly that frequency, I bet I wouldn't notice it. *Yours may differ* lol.
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks, Jim.

I've cleaned all the gears and re-greased - just like you do - each tooth done!

I'll check to see if I've missed anything though.  Are the 101's generally very quiet?  Since this is my first one I'm not familiar with how they are suppose to sound.

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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #4 
There may still be some grinding noise from the shuttle drive if there is still dirt and grit in there. I haven't used PB Blaster yet, but I know it's popular. I use Aero-Kroil, but although everyone I know who uses it loves it, it's not lost on the makers since they jacked the price to about 20 bucks a can. You can use Hoppe's No. 9 gun bore cleaner, which I use a lot for the mechanics on sewing machines, but be aware it should not be used near old clear coats and decals. It works wonders for un-sticking things though. At least for me and anyone with the common sense not to slather it on haphazardly, but only where it's needed. 

As for the sound of the Singer 101, it may very well be that there is nothing else really wrong here except the Singer 101 has it's own unique sound. It does amplify the noise of the lower gears since the removable bed plate (4 screws) is stamped steel and thin - acting like a soundboard. The lower casing is bowl shaped, so combined with the stamped steel bed plate panel you would have an excellent musical instrument if you like steel guitars and resonator guitars using metal cones for sound production. I was amazed the first time I heard my Singer 101. It stands out as unique among Singer designs. 

As for using grease on the lower gears, I personally am against it. The Singer 101 manual specifically says to use oil on those gears. Same with the 201 manual. The motor grease is supposed to be used only on the motor drive gears. There are oiling ports and noted oiling ports in the oiling section of the manual which included where to oil the lower gears. 

The reason not to use grease on the gears, at least under the hook area, is because the grease will trap lint, dirt and other debris and will turn the grease into an abrasive that will damage the gears - literally polish and grind them away. This was noted well in a book about restoring and maintaining old phonograph players that I have. A lot of those gears are brass and don't take much to wear down, but it even states that the soft brass will imbed grit and act like an abrasive and damage the steel gears. Therefore, they always recommend oil only as it will wash away the grit and lot hold it. 

As always, this is only my opinion and you know what they say about opinions. 

-Bruce
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #5 
Bruce, I'm going to try that. It takes but a few minutes to pop that cover and clean all those gears off (now that all the black gunk is gone). The machine is sill on the bench, so I'l do that, and lightly oil. I have to agree about the sound though. My first 101 was nearly silent, with just a slight resonance to a distant hum.
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #6 
On some machines left for years without service, clean and oiling brings them back. Other have a noise, I resort to pulling parts/linkages, to trouble shoot. On the 101 bobbin carrier there is a locator part, it indexes the carrier in a notch in a crossbar by feed dogs. The locator part has a screw and spring underneath. The locator has a bit of movement, and the spring enables it to flex, and return. In two out of three 101, the spring was incorrectly placed after prior work. The tip of spring was on wrong side, so no function.
Another noise in same vicinity is slight rub of side of feed dogs and needle plate. That can happen with loose or out of adjustment cone setscrews on feed dog main linkages. I use thin feeler gauges to check center of dogs in slots.


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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #7 
Thanks All!

For clarification, I did use vaseline on the lower gears and not motor lubricant grease - this is specifically what the manual recommends: ..."ordinary vaseline should be applied to the teeth of these two sets of (lower) gears...."  pg 33 original Singer 101 manual.  
Bruce - do you favor oil over vaseline for the reasons you outlined?

I'll continue to explore penetrants and try to remove the bobbin case and also check out the other locations as pointed out by Kitcarlson.

As I'm listening more closely to the sound - it may be more of a vibration sound so maybe there needs to be some adjustments in some areas.

I'll keep this group posted on my progress and appreciate the feedback.  I'm learning so much from everyone!
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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #8 
Chaly - 

I'm not sure what vintage or issue of 101 manual you have. Page 33 of my digital copy of the Singer green manual is how to use the stripping foot for embroidery or darning - a foot I'm sure most of us have never seen and don't have in our collection. 

The oiling instructions are on page 20 and 21. The instructions indicate only using grease on the motor drive gears. You can grease any gear you want, and many do, but I use oil on my lower gears which is what the oiling holes are for.

Take a look at the oiling diagram - see the hole in the pillar? That one takes care of the gears under the pillar that drive the hook. There is a similar one on the bed near the needle plate area. On the 201, which is more open underneath, you oil directly into the opening above the gears. The 201 has the same oil hole in the pillar as it's predecessor, the 101. 

-Bruce

  SIL10-2682-23a.jpg  SIL10-2682-22a.jpg 
SIL10-2682-35a.jpg 

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #9 
My manual came with my 1930 Singer 101 - it is copyright 1929.  See photo's.  Looks like there are different versions.  Thanks for sharing.
Singer101manual1929.jpg  Singer101lubrication.jpg 

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #10 
Oh and I'm very lucky to have the feed cover plate your referenced.  Hope I can get this machine up and running so I can use it for free motion work...
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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #11 
The Singer 101 manual that I have is dated 1921, so it's the first one they came out with. As I understand it, the 101 came out about 1922. The manuals would have been printed during production. This is the Smithsonian digital file. You can download each page and put them in a folder, which is what I did. Time consuming, but they didn't have it as a PDF file. Some of their stuff is being done over in PDF, but the Smithsonian has a lot of stuff that hasn't been copied and made available. 

https://www.sil.si.edu/DigitalCollections/Trade-Literature/Sewing-Machines/NMAHTEX/2682/

- Bruce
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #12 
One more noise source came to mind. Singer used rollers in slots for cam motion, typically related to feed dog motion. If the roller is stuck on a stud, it will make a schreech sound. Found this issue on many Singers, think lubrication is missed. Sometimes rollers flat spots need replace, with donor parts.

A bit off topic, but the 101 related. There is a roller in slot, the stich length knob controls roller position in slot. At one end, stitch length near zero, the other end long stitches. I visualize that if the slot part could be designed to have travel past zero, it would reverse feed dogs.... But, There may be problems fitting it under bed plate.

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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #13 
First run of Singer 101's: Casting numbers G8176076 thru G8179075, 3000 made, 12 July 1920. The LoC file you show is indeed the '101 & type 40 cabinet' user manual. There's at least one  - and should be two - more user manuals, plus the parts list and Adjuster's manual.

Funny thing about a lot of those Singer 101 resources I just mentioned is that many have been made into pdfs.
PM me and I'll let you know which ones...

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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #14 
One more noise source came to mind. Singer used rollers in slots for cam motion, typically related to feed dog motion. If the roller is stuck on a stud, it will make a schreech sound. Found this issue on many Singers, think lubrication is missed. Rollers wirh flat spots need replaced, with donor parts.

A bit off topic, but the 101 related. There is a roller in slot, the stich length knob controls roller position in slot. At one end, stitch length near zero, the other end long stitches. I visualize that if the slot part could be designed to have travel past zero, it would reverse feed dogs.... But, there may be problems fitting it under bed plate.

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #15 
I've finished all the cleaning today and she's all back together and sews wonderful - especially the very tiny stitches.  I love the stitch length dial - so precise to set stitch length -especially since I'm use to the 201 and 15-91 (their stitch length levers are not my favorite and usually hard to see the numbers unless one does a refurbish of the dial).

I so far like everything about how this machines sews except for the noise that is definitely coming from the bobbin area. The sewing is very smooth but when the machine is running and I press the bobbin case with my finger the noise does dissipate - so it is something to do with this area.  I'm not going to obsess about it now - I'll just wait until I try some different penetrants so I can take this area apart and reassemble.  But for now it's a great machine and I'll soon be doing a project on her.  The cabinet is a Queen Anne that needs some work.  I really wanted the library table 40 since I already have a Singer Queen Anne but I can live with this since I do really like the Queen Anne cabinets and it does fit in with the period - I have the older cabinet with the keyhole.

I found the machine and what I thought was a #40 cabinet on Craigslist.  When I messaged the seller to ask if the machine was still available (it had been on for almost 4 weeks) the seller said he forgot to take the ad off when he donated it to Habitat for Humanity.  He also said it was his mother's machine and she sewed on it until she was 101!  I called the Habitat store where he donated it and after several calls and staff looking in the warehouse it was found.  So lucky me.  I wish I could have met the owner though to get more history and now he contact info is gone. 

In the beginning, I was only trying to find a period cabinet for my first Singer 101 - and as so frequently happens one finds a machine and cabinet together.  Since this one was in much better shape than my first one and a one owner with some interesting history I decided to add to my collection.  I am promising myself this is the last time this will happen as I have enough sewing machine projects and cabinet projects and I just want the time to sew.

If I do get the noise issue resolved I will update.

Singer101front.jpg  singer101sidefront.jpg  singer101back.jpg  singer101top.jpg  singer101sideback.jpg 



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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #16 
The 101 looks great! The model 40 cabinet is a favorite. The other 101 cabinet is the 306.

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #17 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
On some machines left for years without service, clean and oiling brings them back. Other have a noise, I resort to pulling parts/linkages, to trouble shoot. On the 101 bobbin carrier there is a locator part, it indexes the carrier in a notch in a crossbar by feed dogs. The locator part has a screw and spring underneath. The locator has a bit of movement, and the spring enables it to flex, and return. In two out of three 101, the spring was incorrectly placed after prior work. The tip of spring was on wrong side, so no function.
Another noise in same vicinity is slight rub of side of feed dogs and needle plate. That can happen with loose or out of adjustment cone setscrews on feed dog main linkages. I use thin feeler gauges to check center of dogs in slots.


Your info has been so helpful - the noise is definitely not from the feed dogs as they were removed along with the needle plate when I discovered the noise.  I do think your experience with the locator part may be applicable.  I 'll have to wait until I can disassemble the bobbin case area.  I do see that the locator has a bit of movement and I do see the spring you are referring.  Do you have an photos or diagram of the correct spring install?
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #18 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
The 101 looks great! The model 40 cabinet is a favorite. The other 101 cabinet is the 306.


Very stunning!   Thanks for sharing.

If that is your machine, what is your source for the spool holder?

(edited to reflect one cabinet)
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #19 
I found this picture, it is not very good. Lower right is locator. I think it shows correct position. It should move a bit, with spring action. Where the hole is the tip of the spring can be seen, if on wrong side, it does not engage part correctly. It may cause noise, because no cushion of spring.
There could also be packed lint under bobbin case, pushing up hard on race, not good.

Yes that is one of our 101, the spool adapter was fabricated by me per my wifes needs. She said modern spools are designed to feed horizontal off the end. So i made a vertical to horizontal adapter, that accepts Brother spool caps. It solves the modern spool issues on vintage machines. I would like to get them manufactured.

Attached Images
jpeg 20180624_154948.jpg (186.87 KB, 7 views)


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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #20 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
I found this picture, it is not very good. Lower right is locator. I think it shows correct position. It should move a bit, with spring action. Where the hole is the tip of the spring can be seen, if on wrong side, it does not engage part correctly. It may cause noise, because no cushion of spring.
There could also be packed lint under bobbin case, pushing up hard on race, not good.

Yes that is one of our 101, the spool adapter was fabricated by me per my wifes needs. She said modern spools are designed to feed horizontal off the end. So i made a vertical to horizontal adapter, that accepts Brother spool caps. It solves the modern spool issues on vintage machines. I would like to get them manufactured.


You picture confirms what I was thinking - thanks for sending!  Now I just have to get those screws loose!

Your adapter is super cool and a great idea.  I use a thread holder but it can get clunky.  I like your idea better especially for smaller spools.  Best on manufacturing them and keep me updated if they are available.
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #21 
Getting screws loose. Seems often screws are over tight. Screwheads often show damage. Here are a few things that help. Adli has screwdriver kits about once a year. There are two small hollow ground screwdrivers that work well for bobbin tension screws, and bobbin races. I have bought a few sets, not all perfect, but well worth the price. I consider them disposable.
First clean the screw head. I like 91% or better isopropyl alcohol. It removes varnished oil, but also softens laquer, don't get it on machine topcoat. Use small wire brush clean slot. Tri-flow oil is a good penetrant. A drop on head and let it sit, over night is good. Use screwdriver that fits, hold down with a couple fingers, tap top, with the handle of a larger screwdriver. In the automotive mechanics world it is called waking up a bolt. The tap sends a mechanical shock, that helps compress, the oil varnish, corrosion and tension. Then with confidence, insert screwdriver, pressing down, while giving it a turn. If that fails, use pliers on handle, while holding down. I haven't broken a screw yet.

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #22 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
Getting screws loose. Seems often screws are over tight. Screwheads often show damage. Here are a few things that help. Adli has screwdriver kits about once a year. There are two small hollow ground screwdrivers that work well for bobbin tension screws, and bobbin races. I have bought a few sets, not all perfect, but well worth the price. I consider them disposable.
First clean the screw head. I like 91% or better isopropyl alcohol. It removes varnished oil, but also softens laquer, don't get it on machine topcoat. Use small wire brush clean slot. Tri-flow oil is a good penetrant. A drop on head and let it sit, over night is good. Use screwdriver that fits, hold down with a couple fingers, tap top, with the handle of a larger screwdriver. In the automotive mechanics world it is called waking up a bolt. The tap sends a mechanical shock, that helps compress, the oil varnish, corrosion and tension. Then with confidence, insert screwdriver, pressing down, while giving it a turn. If that fails, use pliers on handle, while holding down. I haven't broken a screw yet.


Thanks so much for sharing what works for you.  I have a great Chapman hollow ground screwdriver set that has always worked really well for me - but I don't have the exact size tip I need for these small screws in the bobbin case - I may check out just ordering one tip from Chapman if that is feasible and if they have the size.  I think having the right size tip and a good handle or ratchet is half the battle. I do have an Aldi's nearby so I'll check to see if they have any screwdriver sets in stock now.

I have not tried the alcohol and this makes since.  I've done Tri-Flow and PB blaster along with heat and tapping.  My husband is stronger and he tried as well but we don't want to use too much force with the wrong screwdriver as we don't want to break the screw (this is why I want to get a Chapman tip since it is a safer bet that the tip will break before the screw).

I also ordered another penetrant as well so I'll keep trying.  This machine is really worth the trouble as it sews so well - I just did a few small projects and at some point will do a post to this group and summarize my comparison with my other Singers - especially my 201 - so far there are some aspects of performance that for me are better than my 201 and there are a few things that are not a match.

Thanks again!
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ke6cvh

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Reply with quote  #23 
Hello group,  I know there is nothing new about these tools but here is a link for one.  At one duty station in the Navy we had one of these (but different brand/style) and they were exceptional working with screws that had stripped heads.  I've got one on my wish list for some time now.  Tap with hammer and it turns and impacts at same time using a calibrated arm for the amount of impact.  Best regards, Mike   https://www.garrettwade.com/pro-screw-loosening-impact-driver-set-gp.html
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #24 
I was happy about my Aldi screw drivers. Used them to service about 50 machines over two year period. Recently purchase a newer set, looked at them 1st time tonight for a picture. My trusty set is at another location. Not sure the newer ones will be as good. The hollow ground part is longer. I have a feeling they may twist and break easily. The tip widths are 1/8" and 3/32".

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #25 
As an update, I've finally removed the bobbin case.  Many thanks for the numerous helpful comments.  I soaked in Kroil oil adding more daily.  I checked out the Aldi screwdrivers and bought a set of the tips - they are really nice for $6.99 - not as nice as the Chapman set - but they will come in handy and were useful for this work.

My husband volunteered his extra strength and finally yesterday we got one of the screws off.  We noticed the remaining screw seemed defective and we just couldn't get a grip on it so we used a Dremel tool to carve a deeper slot.  And this worked!  (although I will need to find a replacement screw).

There was a tremendous amount of gunk - really gummy and hardened dried oil.  It took me several hours to clean up the whole bobbin area.  With the bobbin case out and area cleaned I still got the noise.

I then cleaned again all moving parts everywhere, added Kroil oil, cleaned again, added Tri-Flow. Everything runs very smooth.  No vibrations.  When the clutch is disengaged the motor is very quiet.  After the cleaning, the noise is less and not really a grinding but a pulsating higher pitch when run at high speed.  Now at medium speed everything sounds fine.  So I'm thinking maybe this is either the normal sound or it will take a while to get all the old dried oil out from all moving areas. I do not plan to take everything apart to clean.

My only thing left to do now is take apart and clean the pedal.  I'm including a picture of the inside - If anyone sees anything out of sorts please let me know.  Thanks!
Singer 101 inside.jpg 



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ke6cvh

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Reply with quote  #26 
When taking apart the pedal the carbon buttons can get chipped or crack in half easily.  Sometimes it is good to have a donor pedal where carbon buttons can be added/replaced if needed.  Best regards, Mike
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #27 
Superior sewing, supsew.com has manuals and parts list Singer 101-1.pdf. The screws on the hook that hold the bobbin carrier in place, are part #50151, shown on plate 8307, and part of complete hook assembly 66570, page 11. Did not see screw separate, but found Singer 115 uses same screw, different hook. 115 a bit rare too, so not good help.


I see the hook is off, wondering what keeps the gearshaft that drives it from falling down. If thread was wrapped under hook, that would be place to investigate.

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #28 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ke6cvh
When taking apart the pedal the carbon buttons can get chipped or crack in half easily.  Sometimes it is good to have a donor pedal where carbon buttons can be added/replaced if needed.  Best regards, Mike


Thanks for the heads up!
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #29 
I've been in there and done that carbon disc clean and equalize thing before and all it did for me was test my patience. Didn't affect the peddle performance one bit. If the pedal is working well, I'd stick to cleaning contacts and minor adjustment. Again though, your experience may differ, and I can at least say that I did that once.
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #30 
Superior sewing, supsew.com has manuals and parts list Singer 101-1.pdf. The screws on the hook that hold the bobbin carrier in place, are part #50151, shown on plate 8307, and part of complete hook assembly 66570, page 11. Did not see screw separate, but found Singer 115 uses same screw, different hook. 115 a bit rare too, so not good help.

I have the PDF parts list so kindly sent to me by another participant here - and I see your reference matches exactly what I need.  I'll keep a search on and hopefully I can find the screw.  Very luckily, I can use the screw from my second 101, but eventually I will need the screw so I can get that machine up and running as well.  

I didn't plan it this way, but I'm finding it nice to have a second identical machine from one I'm working on - helps me with putting things back together and also can contribute spare parts.

Whenever I take thing apart I have a fear I'm going to drop and lose those tiny tiny screws and replacements on these vintage machines are not always easy to come by - this is why my comfort zone has been with the Singer 15's and 201's as parts are so easy.  I admire all the folks here who work with rare machines and have to work diligently to come up with parts when needed.
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #31 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim/Steelsewing
I've been in there and done that carbon disc clean and equalize thing before and all it did for me was test my patience. Didn't affect the peddle performance one bit. If the pedal is working well, I'd stick to cleaning contacts and minor adjustment. Again though, your experience may differ, and I can at least say that I did that once.


I'll probably just be doing a cleaning and adjusting since it's working fine.  I know you have a few Singer 101's - any comments on how they sound when you have them running?  Maybe you can compare to a Singer 201 for my reference.
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Reply with quote  #32 
I found machines attract machines, parts attract parts. It just happens.
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Reply with quote  #33 
The 101s sound better than this 201 I'm working on, lol. Not much help huh? I have this little digital sound recorder... hmmm. Wonder if I can make a sound file and send it along. I will check into that in the morning. =)
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Friar_Tuck

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Reply with quote  #34 
Your 201 is noisy? The reason I love the 201s is that they are so quiet.
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #35 
I missed something. This 201 came to me as just a head. It was stiff when I tried it out. I gave it a good going over with the smo... twice... and it seemed a lot better. Then, I let it sit a week or so, and when I tried it again tonight it was again slow to turn again for a little bit and I got a little complaint from the underside. I *think* maybe it's the connecting rod to the feed dog linkage. I'll sort it out in the morning. But yes, I agree, a 201 shouldn't make much noise at all. =)

So the new one is a centennial? That's nice. There was just that slight tint of blue around the badge edge and I couldn't tell if it was a 51 or later!

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Reply with quote  #36 
There are good sound measurement applications for android phones. The measurement is intensity over frequency spectrum, with real time plot. I am doing interior painting, machines stored in spare rooms. I have 101s, 201s, 115s. Even hand cranks of 115 and 201. I can do tests, and report back, but it will take a couple weeks.
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Friar_Tuck

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Reply with quote  #37 
The new 201 has a serial number allocated November 1951, but not the centennial badge.
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Cari-in-Oly

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Reply with quote  #38 
The Singer badges after the Centennial ones were black rimmed. All of my 1950s Singer have a black rimmed badge.

Cari

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #39 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
There are good sound measurement applications for android phones. The measurement is intensity over frequency spectrum, with real time plot. I am doing interior painting, machines stored in spare rooms. I have 101s, 201s, 115s. Even hand cranks of 115 and 201. I can do tests, and report back, but it will take a couple weeks.


This might be interesting if you have time - and you could start a new thread RE: VSM sounds.  It sounds kind of techie but sound is an important indication of how machines operate.  We almost didn't get our Rav4 cause we didn't like the sound upon acceleration - now we are use to it and love our car.
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #40 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
I found machines attract machines, parts attract parts. It just happens.


Yes, I'm discovering this!
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #41 
Yes, a new topic will be generated. Been thinking about a test plan with methods, for fair comparison of machines. The machine noise, and vibration has been an interest. My hearing is not good, electronic measurements are accurate. I hope the research may help as a diagnostic.

You have me pegged, I'm a techie, but feel at home with VSM hobby.

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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #42 
I managed to make a sound file of my first 101 machine. Granted it's been sitting idle for a lot longer than it should have and now I'll probably have to give it a really good cleaning. I am not a techie, so jumping through all the hoops to get a sound recording was... cumbersome. Funny thing though, can't post it. There no options for a mp3 file and yes... I suppose there may indeed be some sort of convert to avi voodoo out there... but barring that I'll have to email it. =(
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #43 
Jim - I just sent you a PM - you can try to attach the file to a PM to me or alternatively send to my private email which I provided to you.

Many thanks for your efforts.
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #44 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaly
Jim - I just sent you a PM - you can try to attach the file to a PM to me or alternatively send to my private email which I provided to you.

Many thanks for your efforts.


Done and done.  Honestly don't want this end. Great thread, great responses, couldn't ask for a better tear down and cleaning of the often ignored little 'ol 101!

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Jeanette Frantz

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Reply with quote  #45 
Chaly, that 101 sure looks good for its age!  I lucked out a few years ago and got a 201-2, with excellent decals.  The machine was not working because someone had removed the tensioner and put it back in backwards.  My son, who is my sm expert, took one look at that and said, well, this is not right!  Although we did have to replace the light switch electrical block (the switch was broken) and invested in a replacement, but original, foot control, and a slide plate, and wahlah  (spelling????) the machine was in great running condition.  I've quilted a queen size plus quilt, and several baby quilts.  I plan on using it a lot more in the coming months (hopefully), if I get the results I'm hoping for on a procedure tomorrow morning.  I love how the machine works.  My son also completely rewired the electrical because the 201 is infamous for the deterioration of the wiring.  Oh, by the way, mine also has a centennial badge.
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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #46 
Jeanette,

Yes, I was lucky to have found this one.  I hope you are able to keep up using your fabulous 201 - one of my favorite machines to use.  I'm just trying my hand at FM quilting as a break from garment sewing so I hope you can provide me some feedback when I post in the quilting section.
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