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KenmoreGal2

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Reply with quote  #1 
So I'm straightening out my needle collection.

I have some pretty old (but hopefully still new) Kenmore needles, still in the package. They are stamped with the sizes 0, 1, 2 and I think 3. Maybe 4 too??

How does that translate to the sizes I am more familiar with - 12, 14, 16 etc?

Thanks!!

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J Miller

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Reply with quote  #2 
KG2,

This might help a bit:
Size of needles Old vs New.jpg 

I think Jon sent me this one and I use it quite a bit.
Besides the number cross reference there's a decimal size to check if you run into something no on the list.

Joe


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Visit our Etsy store for pet related goodies and other items too.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/TBearsAndOtherWares?ele=shop_open

I love the old iron and wood machines. They're solid and reliable.
JM in FT Wayne, IN

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SteveH-VSS

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Reply with quote  #3 
Exactly the image I was going to post!  Well done Joe!
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Margaret

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Reply with quote  #4 
So - my new to me Davis VF says it takes sizes 0 - 4 on the needleplate, but the needle in there now is considerably longer than a standard 15X.  Is this a machine where the little magnet in the needle holder will allow the machine to take a newer needle, or do I need to be on the lookout for old Boye needles or similar?

BTW - this is sheer laziness on my part as I know a little digging would get me that info, so ...you don't have to answer!

I can't sew on her anyway until I dig up a treadle or a base and handcrank.  DH has not been inclined to do my woodwork lately, so I think I'll have to buy something! Seems to be very hard to find a Davis cabinet that doesn't have a machine in it, and they get spendy!

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Margaret 
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KenmoreGal2

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks Joe.
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #6 
Margaret, the difference in length between the Davis needle (Boye #10) and a 15x1 is about 3/8 inch.  If you use a spacer that long in the needle bar and use a 15x1 needle, there may be nothing for the needle clamp to grab.  You apparently have an older Davis with square column and no back stitch.
     I use a Singer treadle base (no cabinet) and a $4 shelving board 16x24", cut out to fit any desired sm head.  Just about any brand treadle base will work, I run Necchi, Pfaff, Stoewer, White, and a host of other heads on my Singer treadle base.  So far I have picked up 4 treadle bases that were "repurposed", with table tops of glass or wood, Davis, White, and two Singers.  Never paid over $25, usually less.
John
100_0033.JPG   

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Margaret

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Reply with quote  #7 
Yes, John, I have the older style Davis with the square column. I believe Jon has a source for the Boye needles so will get with him eventually.

I never thought of just using a treadle base without a cabinet! Thought we might have to take the top off a cabinet and replace it, but just to use a board with a cut out - wow, how easy! And I can find Singer bases made into tables, although people here think they're worth more than I think they are! I will be on the lookout!!

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Margaret 
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #8 
i see a lot of those also, Margaret.  Take a $20 old treadle apart, add a table top and the price goes up to $200.  Then sell the drawers for $10 each, so someone can "steampunk" them, whatever that is...??  I have made a couple of top boards from particle board, but I don't like them.  I usually buy a 1/4 sheet of 3/4 thick plywood, 24x48, and rip three boards 16x24 from it.  Pictured is my travel treadle base with an assortment of boards.  Note that the belt slots are cut to the inside cavity, thus the belt is never unspliced.  The aquarium belting has a lot of stretch and the one belt will fit all machine heads.
John

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jpeg 100_0035.JPG (356.23 KB, 30 views)
jpeg 100_0034.JPG (442.98 KB, 30 views)

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Margaret

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Reply with quote  #9 
That would definitely work for me, although I hope to get a "real" Davis cabinet/treadle someday. How do you splice the tubing? And is there a specific tube size (diameter) that you use? Your set up looks like it's great for switching machine heads in and out easily. Thanks for showing it!
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Margaret 
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #10 
Margaret, If you Google aquarium tubing, you will find it available everywhere for about $4 per 25 feet, delivered, enough for 4 belts.  They might advertise 1/4" OD, mine measures .230.  I splice by jamming about a 1/2 inch long length of 3/16 inch diameter leather or rubber belting into each end to be spliced, then poke holes and use a regular metal belting clip. When cutting the tubing to length, I cut it about 3" shorter rhen a relaxed fit over the pulleys.  You want urethene tubing not vinyl, which is too stiff.
John
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #11 
Here is the simple jig for bending metal belt clips.  Wind the jig full of suitable wire, cut down one side of the stack, between the pins, with a Dremel cut-off wheel, and just lift off the completed clips.
(Not like the one on the bottom & not with soft copper wire, as in the photo.
John 100_0036.JPG 

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Margaret

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Reply with quote  #12 
This is practically a tutorial! What size wire and what metal do you use? And how far apart are your spool pins (or whatever those are)?
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Margaret 
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #13 
Margaret, here are the details, the pins are 3/16" dia. x 1 1/2" long, in a 3/8" thick steel plate.  The pins are .420, center to center. Soft steel wire of .045 to .055" works well, real clips in the photo.  In the splice photo, you can see that I have pushed 3/16 leather belting into each splice end about 1/2". The tubing will collapse and tear w/o some support inside it. I hand drill the belt holes with a 1/16" drill held in a pin vise, no power tools are used.  I have tried to eliminate the clip and just use a single piece of leather about 1 inch long, pressing it into each end of the tubing.  I thought that the belt stretch would hold the piece of leather in place like a Chinese finger puzzle, but constantly turning over the small pulley causes the belt to come apart after a while.  I have not found any glue that sticks to the urethane tubing.  If anything, when I used contact cement, the belt came apart faster.  I have a few sm, wherein the belt does need to come apart, Singer 24, for example.

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jpeg 100_0041.JPG (340.77 KB, 33 views)
jpeg 100_0040.JPG (267.51 KB, 31 views)

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Margaret

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Reply with quote  #14 
Thank you, John! I will bookmark this for the time I get a treadle!
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Margaret 
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SteveH-VSS

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Reply with quote  #15 
in a pinch, a heavy duty staple can be substituted.  I did that and forgot.  It was almost a year later that i discovered i was still treadling away with a regular staple in the belt!

As a suggestion, if you are going to make staples like Farmer John suggested (way cool), when you cut them do not cut perpendicular to the wire but at a 45 degree angle.  

That will make it easier to feed the ends through the leather holes.

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jon

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Reply with quote  #16 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenmoreGal2
So I'm straightening out my needle collection.

I have some pretty old (but hopefully still new) Kenmore needles, still in the package. They are stamped with the sizes 0, 1, 2 and I think 3. Maybe 4 too??

How does that translate to the sizes I am more familiar with - 12, 14, 16 etc?

Thanks!!



  Chart for deciphering needle size for many different Makers.  NS=New Style, OS=Old Style, FS=Flat Shank.  Silk and Cotton size converted to Singer size.  Doesn't always hold true so I measure if the needle is in front of me and use chart to verify.

Jon 12816 001.JPG  img175-1.jpg

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ke6cvh

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Reply with quote  #17 
Hello group,

  I think I like this site as my number 1 site for many reasons others here do as well.  Example #1 when joining my first "treadle" related group I was admonished for mentioning my mother-in-law here overseas uses recycled iv tubing with great success on her treadle.  #2 then I was admonished for talking about sharpening needles (great video on youtube where sir sewsalot talks about how in ww2 the ladies did it because of short supplies and money then how to do it yourself)  #3 Then I joined a Pfaff related group and talked about my industrial model 34 and mentioned I think it was the upper thread tension or something else.....I was emailed by same person from the other group asking to please not do it (well guess what I did and it works fantastic!!!!)  Many other examples but this group seems to be not plagued with these same problems.  Homemade belt clip tutorial...Awesome!!!!  Plastic belts...why not!!!!!  People using their sewing machines and talking about the realities of keeping them maintained....rock on!!  I will still belong to the other groups but like this one most.

Best regards,
Mike
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SteveH-VSS

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Reply with quote  #18 
Welcome Mike!  Let me encourage you to post a comment in the _Introductions section sew we can know a bit more about you!

Yeah, we started this board because of the animosity and angst that some other sites have.  Either the "moderators" who seem to not be used to wielding authority, or "expert" members that believe in the one true way...

I've used aquarium tubing on my machine when traveling for shows because they stretch on and off easily.  I prefer to use leather for the shows, but ya gotta do  what ya gotta do.

Needle sharpening is the correct thing to do.  I have 21 treadles from the 1800's and a LOT of them came originally with sharpening stones designed to be used on the machine for sharpening needles.

Glad to see you made it here! tell your friends!

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Patricktweed

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Reply with quote  #19 
I have a friend who is a tailor who is having trouble finding the proper needle size for his Juki DDL 5550.  He claims the needles have to be 1 and 1/16 length.  I've tried ordering the DB x 1 and they are 1.5", which as far as I can tell from looking on-line should be the right size for his machine.  Can anyone help clear up this mystery?  Thanks.
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Madmurdock75

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Reply with quote  #20 
Found an ebay listing that agrees with you. DBx1 is a really common industrial needle size, so i would think it is correct.
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Cari-in-Oly

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Reply with quote  #21 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patricktweed
I have a friend who is a tailor who is having trouble finding the proper needle size for his Juki DDL 5550.  He claims the needles have to be 1 and 1/16 length.  I've tried ordering the DB x 1 and they are 1.5", which as far as I can tell from looking on-line should be the right size for his machine.  Can anyone help clear up this mystery?  Thanks.

Here's the info page from the Juki website.
http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/apparel_e/1needle_e/ddl5550n7.html

Cari

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Patricktweed

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Reply with quote  #22 
Thank you Cari. This confirms what I found however, my friend insists that the needles that should fit do not. The one in his machine is shorter. I wonder if his machine has been modified.
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Patricktweed

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Reply with quote  #23 
Thank you Christy.
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Ana's Dad

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Reply with quote  #24 
A friend just gave me this nearly full box of older Singer needles made in Germany.  I'm assuming they are for some sort of industrial machine(s)?  If they could be of use to anyone I can post them.

Cheers Needles.jpeg 


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hwp

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Reply with quote  #25 
Pretty sure these will fit a Singer 20U33 semi-industrial.  Singer sold a ton of these machines and the style was copied by many other makers.  You can buy them new today but the older ones made in Japan are much better than the current Chinese ones.

H.
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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #26 
The Singer 135x5, 135x7, DPx5 will also fit many of the Singer industrial machines such as the Singer 61w, one of the old Wheeler & Wilson designs. Singer supposedly bought out Wheeler & Wilson to get their industrial line. 

-Bruce

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Cari-in-Oly

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Reply with quote  #27 
My long arm uses needles with this on the package:
134
DP X 5
135 x5
R


Looks right to me, I'll take them.

Cari

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Ana's Dad

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Reply with quote  #28 
Hi Cari

So glad you can use them.  If you PM me an address I'll get them in the mail.

Cheers

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Cari-in-Oly

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Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ana's Dad
Hi Cari

So glad you can use them.  If you PM me an address I'll get them in the mail.

Cheers


Pm sent. Thank you!

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