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Perry

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Reply with quote  #1 
This is the full size Bent Wood I got with the old model 15 which I cleaned up and and clear coated. The case was in pretty nice shape (compared to the others I picked up from Good Will), but I am going to do "my thing" to it and since I will be building another from pretty much scrap, I need to make a pattern and do some measurements and kill the stink from previous owners not keeping them safe from moisture and incorrect storage. 



I removed all the hardware and carefully removed the bottom ([m going to replace it since it's in bad shape).  It has some repair work needed and it's pretty grungy (like the model 15 that was in it. The old glue and the small nails gave up rather quickly and it was apart in short time. 

IMG_6108.jpg IMG_6109.jpg IMG_6110.jpg IMG_6112.jpg IMG_6114.jpg IMG_6115.jpg 



IMG_6114.jpg

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Perry

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Reply with quote  #2 
after disassembly of the base, I started on the top. It needed a couple veneer spots glued and clamped overnight. I lifted the loose edges and used some Tite bond III and clamped it up. Most of the bolsters were loose. The old glue just needed to retire. I also chamfered the holes which used to hold the knee lever and stuff (It will not be going back in).  


IMG_6103.jpg 
IMG_6104.jpg 
IMG_6106.jpg  IMG_6112.jpg  IMG_6111.jpg 

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Perry

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Reply with quote  #3 
This morning, I sanded the inside to get rid of the old shellac which was flaking and stinking then I cleaned it with a damp cloth and thinned the wood filler to a slurry so I could puit a real thin skim coat on it. After the first skim coat, I'll sand it down with 320 and look for High/low spots. Then another skim coat and hit it with 400 and get her smooth as silk inside. Gotta be smooth, it's getting a fresh piece of walnut veneer inside and if it isn't smooth, you'll see the imperfections right through the veneer. This will dry for a few hours and I'll start the hand sanding. 



IMG_6116.jpg  IMG_6117.jpg  IMG_6118.jpg 

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Perry

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Reply with quote  #4 
My router has been gathering dust so I ordered a dovetail jig which I'll use to build a new base. and I have some 1" x 4" walnut which will make up the frame of the base. It should be plenty sturdy. 
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #5 
Nice work!
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorba
Nice work!


Thanks, I'm better at this than I am at painting....    😉
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #7 
I HATE SANDING....   I had a total shoulder replacement 2 years ago and I can't be at it long. Can't fit the orbital sander inside the top so it's all by hand. I'm gonna be sore for sure.

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Chaly

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Reply with quote  #8 
Looks like you'll be busy sanding!  What did you use to thin the wood putty?

Nice to see your techniques.
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaly
Looks like you'll be busy sanding!  What did you use to thin the wood putty?

Nice to see your techniques.


The DAP wood filler (comes in a plastic squeeze tube), is water soluble till dry. I put a tablespoon into the tube and "worked it" till mixed. I just finished sanding the first skim coat, and applied second treatment to low spots. I'll sand that in the morning, and then put another skim coat and work it smooth. 
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #10 
I also just traced the bottom piece I pulled off and traced it onto some Luan I have in the same thickness (I'm making 2 bottom pieces, one for another case).

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Rodney

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Reply with quote  #11 
This will be a good one to follow along on.  Veneer repair, let alone replacing it, is something I'm not good at.  I don't envy you on the sanding inside the case.
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #12 
Got the inside veneered, and here is a couple shots of the hand rubbed finish. It's a Varathane wax which leaves the natural finish but gives it a little gloss once hand buffed. One more coat and I'll put the bolsters back in. and start the outside. Veneering the outside is way easier than the inside. WAYYYY EASIER!!!!  I haven't decided on the finish for the outside. I'll use the same veneer, but I thought about some Varathane clear or maybe I'll use the same Wax.  Hard to tell the look with the way the sun reflects off of it. 


IMG_6122r (2208 x 1656).jpg 
IMG_6120r (2208 x 1656).jpg 

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pgf

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Reply with quote  #13 
Will you glue the bolsters on top of the wax?
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #14 
No, I de-waxed where they mount.

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pgf

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Reply with quote  #15 
I'm always looking for technique tips.  I never finish something until after everything's attached, because I can't figure out how to de-wax or de-oil just a small spot in order to glue something on.

How do you de-wax those little spots precisely enough not to mess up the adjacent finish that will remain visible?

paul

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Perry

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Reply with quote  #16 
Lightly mark where it goes with a pencil and use a couple of q-tips to clean the area. This wax takes a couple hours to dry so it's not a problem
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #17 
Also those bolsters are on the inside of the case it's not that big of a deal if the finish isn't perfect
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pgf

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Reply with quote  #18 
Okay thanks!   Another question then:  What do you use that removes wax with a Q-tip?   (And, I usually finish with furniture oil, which as far as I know requires sanding to remove.)
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #19 
Acetone cures all
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #20 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgf
Okay thanks!   Another question then:  What do you use that removes wax with a Q-tip?   (And, I usually finish with furniture oil, which as far as I know requires sanding to remove.)


I actually cut my acetone with 99% Isopropyl alcohol. 50/50 mix. I use it for my soldering and cleaning PCB's. 
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pgf

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Reply with quote  #21 
Thanks.  I've got both.  I've also got soldering and PCBs, but that's not really relevant.  ;-)
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #22 
Perry,
Your work is amazing. Great job!

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Perry

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Reply with quote  #23 
As this project is nearing completion, I was sitting here thinking about the Picture Jim posted (Gee, thanks Jim [smile]) of that gorgeous 66 sporting the Lotus decals so I found a 1928 model 66, and I have a 1923 model 99 both with bent wood cases and I'm going to do them both at the same time. I'll strip them down, they'll get a single stage black paint, and the 66 will get the Lotus decals, the 99? I don't see anything that rings my bell and the 99's were rather bland (IMHO). 
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #24 
Perry,
The Singer 28, 128 machines have many decal styles. They are 3/4 size like 99, but differ in slide plate areas. It may be possible to buy extra, and splice/modify in.

Looking at originals, working with reproduction decals may lead you down a different path.

You have great skills! Actually, I have hope you will create decals, in future.

I started, but have stalled ... I have trouble sitting behind a computer. Spinal issues, long list of excuses.


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pgf

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Reply with quote  #25 
FWIW:  I haven't tried it myself, but Steve highly recommends Duplicolor DE1635 engine paint as an excellent match for the flow and final luster and depth of the original japanning.

paul

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SteveH-VSS

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Reply with quote  #26 
DE1635 really is virtually indistinguishable from Japanning.
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #27 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
Perry,
The Singer 28, 128 machines have many decal styles. They are 3/4 size like 99, but differ in slide plate areas. It may be possible to buy extra, and splice/modify in.

Looking at originals, working with reproduction decals may lead you down a different path.

You have great skills! Actually, I have hope you will create decals, in future.

I started, but have stalled ... I have trouble sitting behind a computer. Spinal issues, long list of excuses.




Now THAT, is a great idea. I thought using a different model's decals might be "Poo-Poo'd" but I can find something interesting by using them. I really like the LaVincendora or the Tiffany. It's got the color which will match the Lotus. Is there a site you used for the design of decals? I have a fair amount of CAD experience and would think about doing a design or two. I do believe that one of the decal sites sold each individual decal so doing a little custom work is possible. I just have to find it again. Thanks Dave.

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Perry

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Reply with quote  #28 
Paul and Steve, thanks for the info on the DE1635. I have been known to use the rattle can a time or two. I had thought about having them Powder Coated but doing 2 machines at the same time would run probably $300 for Blasting and Coating. I'll save the Powder Coating for the model 15J from Canada I'll be doing. I'll get some of that on order. I needed to get some DE1651 which I use for my stereo chassis' anyway. Thanks


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SteveH-VSS

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Reply with quote  #29 
practice with it on something else metal first.  The ceramic content of the paint makes it flow different.
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #30 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH-VSS
practice with it on something else metal first.  The ceramic content of the paint makes it flow different.


I use this style paint all the time and you are right, it flows different. I like it for sure. 
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #31 
I'm working on the base and it had/has a couple issues as most things that are 100 years old. It couldn't have been broken in a worse spot. I have been repairing it (building it up, sanding it down) for a few days and it is starting to show progress. Here is a before and an after shot. I almost got it. I tried laying in a gob of wood filler but it didn't work. I had to cut a piece and cut out a piece to insert some hard wood and epoxy it in. Pretty much a PITA for sure. I'll get it presentable but it will never be perfect but neither is the machine I put in it but it will look great for 100 years of being used.   [thumb]


IMG_6109rs (2208 x 1656).jpg 
IMG_6123rs (2208 x 1656).jpg 

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Olaf

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Reply with quote  #32 
A hundred years form now, someone pick it up in a yard sale, and says: "Wow, someone did a good repair job on this base, you shouldn't think it is two hundred years old!" [smile]

Olaf

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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #33 
Perry,
About the decal artwork, I planned to use Inkscape. It is vector graphics, so can scale in size without stair steps of pixels. Like cad designs can be done in layers, and there are really neat features. There are tutorials on YouTube that helps getting started. I made a post here: https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/decal-artwork-10188939?highlight=inkscape&pid=1309082403

Inkscape here: https://inkscape.org/


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Dave in middle TN
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Perry

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Reply with quote  #34 
The anatomy of a bent wood cover.   This one was falling apart so I'm working on it (along with a couple others). 


IMG_6124rs (2208 x 1656).jpg IMG_6125rs (2208 x 1656).jpg   

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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #35 
Nice pictures. Not many go deep. Looking forward to after pictures. Your work is always impressive.


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Perry

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Reply with quote  #36 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitcarlson
Nice pictures. Not many go deep. Looking forward to after pictures. Your work is always impressive.



Thank you. last night I did some gluing, clamping and filling divots with wood filler. Heading out to do another round of sanding on the bent wood cover I have apart. I should be able to hit it with 320, do a real light skim coat, and a final sanding. While it's drying, I'll go get the DE1635 and some stripper. I just disassembled the 66 so I have a busy day. Plus the wife informed me that I am giving her a ride to Minnesota around the end of the month. She should have been gone already but the airlines cancelled her flight. The daughter is ready to pop a baby boy....    Dang, I'll lose valuable  restoration/resto-mod time......   😉
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Kitcarlson

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Reply with quote  #37 
Best of luck with all you do. You are blessed with a full life, and family.

When I am tied up were I can't work with my hands I imagine the work. It is actually productive, for when there is time.

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Dave in middle TN
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