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Diana

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Reply with quote  #1 
Machine was damaged during shipping but I tried to reattach bed etc it’s to nice not to keep trying!! I will post video and pictures today with hopes you guys can spot something I am missing? Not sure if I am using the correct needle and I am using the shuttle and bobbin that came in the machine..maybe that’s not correct? Let’s pull a Christmas miracle folks!!!
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #2 
I am trying to load a short video but it won’t post to my reply

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OurWorkbench

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Reply with quote  #3 
Possible causes -
Needle inserted incorrectly (is it a round shank?)
Needle threaded from wrong direction
Bobbin thread wrong direction
Shuttle threaded incorrectly
Handwheel rotated wrong direction

Janey

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SteveH-VSS

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Reply with quote  #4 
With the slide plate open, Slowly turn the machine the correct direction and watch the loop being formed and the shuttle passing through.  You should be able to see pretty quick if the timing was changed by the damage.
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #5 
I see 3 stitches here it was rough but it’s a step forward?

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SteveH-VSS

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Reply with quote  #6 
It looks like the needle is slightly turned.
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #7 
Thanks I am now not getting a underside stitch more of a mess of top thread I have changed the top thread and am tightening the top tension
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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #8 
It sounds to me like you are slowly getting it right. Top thread looping is too loose tension. Not picking up stitches can be wrong needle (not long enough) or needle bar out of time. 

When the needle is just starting its upstroke, the point of the shuttle should be at the needle and about 1/16" below the eye of the needle. If it is not set that low, chances are the needle has struck something in the past (needle plate or steel pin?) and knocked the needle bar up a tad. All you need to do is loosen the needle bar clamp screw (take the face plate off) and reset the needle bar, being careful to keep the needle bar lined up so that the groove of the needle faces left in line with the arm of the machine. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. A lot of old machines need some timing/tuning. 

These old tension units generally always need total adjustment particularly after cleaning since all they are is a nut screwed down a shaft. It's pretty tough putting it back together and getting it set exactly where it was with something this simple. 

As to needle, looking at the needle seat (cut slot, etc.) it may be flat and wide which would indicate a 15x1 needle. A rounded seat would indicate a 16x1 (DBx1) needle, and a thin cutout would indicate a 12x1 needle. If it took a longer needle, say a 20x1 or similar, it would probably be possible to lower the needle bar to accept the 15x1 without modification or "hand setting" the needle. 

-Bruce
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #9 
Thanks Bruce!
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OurWorkbench

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Reply with quote  #10 
I would double check that the thread is going through the tension discs and all the thread guides. Something I'm curious about is if it is a freshly wound bobbin with new thread? Is it an original needle? Also, I have sometimes released the presser foot pressure, for storage, then forget to increase it again, when trying to sew with the machine.

Janey

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pgf

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Reply with quote  #11 
and one more thing I think no one else has mentioned: be sure the entire thread path for both the top and lower threads are clean -- no gunk, no lint, no grime buildup.
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #12 
Hi everyone I have to take a break on the Dürkopp to do some items for clients and wrap gifts!!! I will get back to it ASAP!!!!
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #13 
Bruce -JonesHand 52 is there a video on setting the timing on a shuttle/handcrank?
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #14 
Heading to a family brunch but hope to figure this out today!!

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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #15 
Diana - Two things, first timing a long bobbin machine is really easy; notes below. Second, that is not a vibrating shuttle/cylinder shuttle in the machine you are showing. WTH? Could be some kind of conversion? Chain stitch? Never seen anything like it before. Always something new under the sun! Anyway, I do not see a shuttle there, but something else entirely. 

If you do need instructions for timing a machine such as a Singer 27, etc., they are simple. 

1. First, check the clearance between the shuttle and the race - it should be close, but not rubbing. Fit a strip of writing paper between the race and the shuttle, loosen the mounting screw for the shuttle carrier and move it toward the race until the shuttle is touching the paper. No need to push it tight, just see that the shuttle is touching the paper. Tighten screw, remove paper. By writing paper, I mean quality bond paper. Printer paper will do just fine. 
Also, wipe a thin layer of oil on the race. 

2. Remove face plate, front slide and needle plate. Turn hand wheel until needle is just making the upstroke and point of shuttle is at needle. Loosen needle bar clamp screw and raise or lower the needle bar so that the hole in the needle is about 1/16" below the point of the shuttle. Tighten screw. Be sure the long groove in the needle is facing to the left in line with the arm of the machine (threading left to right towards pillar) and not twisted out of alingment, scarf of the needle facing shuttle. 

That's about all there is to timing a long shuttle machine - easy peasy lemon squeezy. It's rather easy to knock one of these needle bars out of time if hitting a pin or the needle gets pulled and hits the needle hole edge. That set screw is just a friction hold and the needle bar will move if the needle hits something hard. Same goes for most of the machines we use. 


- Bruce
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #16 
Well when this came the needle was broke off so I am sure it could of got jammed!
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #17 
Here it is with shuttle in

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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #18 
That shuttle carrier is not one I was used to seeing. With the shuttle in, it looks normal now. I don't see anything unusual here, so as long as the needle is put in properly with the flat facing to the right and the long groove to the left, there is no excess space between the shuttle and the race and the needle bar/needle correctly timed, you should have no further trouble. 

Merry Christmas! 

- Bruce
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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #19 
You should have no further trouble assuming you have the correct needle. 

Seeing a bit of the bed decal suddenly woke me up to the fact that your machine may not take the 15x1 needle. If it was made to take the 20x1 needle, you will need to "short shank" the needle, which means setting up the machine to have the needle just on the upstroke with the shuttle point meeting the needle and hand setting the needle so the hole in the needle is 1/16" below the point of the shuttle. 

This is the common practice among those of us who own machines that take the 20x1 needle. Adjusting the needle bar properly for use with original needles would of course require obtaining a proper needle for the job. 20x1 needles can be found now and then on eBay, Etsy or Bonanza. 

If it takes another type of needle, which I doubt, it would be another matter. Some European machines take a round shank needle, but generally close to the same length as the flat shank 15x1. Those take a system 287 or DBx1 needle. 

-Bruce
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #20 
The needle eye appeared fine I am using a Davis long needle.. it’s making stitches with top thread but not locking with bobbin thread?
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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #21 
Ok, I have 3 machines that use the Davis long needle. Timing and adjustments would be made the same as for all the other VS or long bobbin machines. Check to see that your needle is not bent. 

Open the front slide plate and watch the action as the shuttle passes. It should enter the thread loop, pass over the shuttle and slip off the end and draw up to form the stitch. 

It sounds like it's more of a tension problem than anything else at this point. Understand that I am only guessing since I cannot see or touch the machine and am trying to troubleshoot this in the dark. 

If there are long loops, top tension is too loose. If it won't allow a stitch to form, then top tension may be too tight. Bottom tension should be even, not real easy to pull the lower thread up and not so tight as it would be hard to draw out and to the rear. The tension spring on the shuttle may need adjusting, but also check to see if there is any crud under the spring that would impair thread travel or smooth tension. 

- Bruce
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #22 
I have ordered some 20x1 needles to try and will keep adjusting the tension and if I get a break through I will share!!
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JonesHand52

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Reply with quote  #23 
Diana, tell me this - if you have the Davis long needle in the machine, when the needle is all the way down and just starting back up, where is the hole in the needle in relation to the point of the shuttle?

-Bruce
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #24 
I will send a short video if we are allowed?
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #25 
Black front white back!!!! It’s getting better!!!

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Diana

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Reply with quote  #26 
Bruce I think I need to take the top tension off and clean it..I am now breaking top thread and if I loosen it I go back to loops?
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OurWorkbench

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Reply with quote  #27 
I don't know if this will help with this machine, but from what I read it may.
http://singerfeatherweight221.blogspot.com/2008/07/featherweight-tension-adjustments-by.html

Janey

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seb58

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Reply with quote  #28 
Call me silly but wouldn't the fact that there is no needle plate cause  a problem with the stitch formation?
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #29 
Are you asking me? If you follow the post you will read why the plate was off and I had it on while trying to get good stitches
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seb58

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Reply with quote  #30 
Alright, sorry my mistake, I was just trying to help
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Diana

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Reply with quote  #31 
Appreciate any ideas?? I put it aside for a bit gets to you after a while!!
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pgf

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Reply with quote  #32 
Have you cleaned the entire thread path?  Did you ever clean the top tension?

You started this thread by saying the machine had been damaged.  What was the damage?

paul

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