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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #1 
singer.jpg 
Only picture until after Xmas - spotted in a thrift store, thought it'd be a great Xmas present, wife saw it and agreed. But I don't get to look/touch again until "the day".

Seems to be "all there", except the light lens and its springy thing (Anybody know where I can get them?). The wiring looks hinky, but it looks like it hasn't been touched since somebody's grandma passed on. Turns over fine - motor and controller "look good". Even has the shuttle/bobbin carrier, and I suspect a bobbin inside. I think the case will just need some touch-up.

Somebody please remind me of what to use to clean this up - I know it isn't ammonia!



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Kimfella

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Reply with quote  #2 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorba
singer.jpg 
Only picture until after Xmas - spotted in a thrift store, thought it'd be a great Xmas present, wife saw it and agreed. But I don't get to look/touch again until "the day".

Seems to be "all there", except the light lens and its springy thing (Anybody know where I can get them?). The wiring looks hinky, but it looks like it hasn't been touched since somebody's grandma passed on. Turns over fine - motor and controller "look good". Even has the shuttle/bobbin carrier, and I suspect a bobbin inside. I think the case will just need some touch-up.

Somebody please remind me of what to use to clean this up - I know it isn't ammonia!

I am so tempted to tell you it will clean up really well with some Government Green chalk paint.  But that would just be mean, so I won't.[angel]

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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #3 
I need your GPS coordinates for my missile targeting system... [wink]
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seb58

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Reply with quote  #4 
It looks like a fine specimen. I'd use SM oil to clean the outside and then some carnuba wax if you want extra shine. As it is, I do think a nice dusting will do most of the trick.
If you ever miss parts, let me know, I have a shuttle bobbin case and some 127 parts to spare [wink]
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanx! The best I can tell, the only thing missing is the afore mentioned light lens and its spring washer.
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seb58
It looks like a fine specimen. I'd use SM oil to clean the outside and then some carnuba wax if you want extra shine. As it is, I do think a nice dusting will do most of the trick.


I agree with seb on all accounts. Great looking machine. A little oil, some wax, double check the wires!

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Reply with quote  #7 
That machine looks like it will clean up beautifully and be a fun project. Can't wait to see the after photos.
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Kimfella

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorba
I need your GPS coordinates for my missile targeting system... [wink]

[thumb]

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pgf

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Reply with quote  #9 
After seeing Steve's endorsement, I've been using "Orange Glo Wood Furniture Cleaner" on any of my machines instead of SM oil.  It's a strictly oil-based cleaner (i.e., no water, no alcohol), with some citrus cleaning agents added in.  I'm not completely convinced it's better than SM oil, but it's a lot cheaper, comes in a spray bottle, and smells nice.  ;-)  Oh -- and like Steve, I've seen zero damage from it.

After cleaning I use Howard's Feed 'n Wax -- I suspect any liquid wax would work.  I prefer it to a paste wax, since if it gets in crevices you don't end up with white crust to clean out.  The main reason for the wax is that it gives old paint some added lustre.

paul
p.s. Nice choice of gifts,  btw.  :-)   Myself, I'm trying to figure out how to leave a subtle (but not _too_ subtle!) hint about a set of Chapman screwdrivers where my wife will find it.

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Mkwatts

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Reply with quote  #10 
Both the machine and the screwdriver set sound like great gifts. I am asking for Chapman's too. I am not subtle. The set is proudly listed on the fridge.

My 115 came in a paper covered case similarly the one yours is in. I didn't think it was original to the machine because the machine is a "treadle style."

Did the 127 128 115 come new in those cases with motors or were they put in cases when their cabinet was needed for a newly bought machine? I am definitely looking at the case differently.

My 115 has most of the paper loose and moldyish on the underside of the paper. Are there techniques to salvage the paper. Or do you just recover the box?
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkwatts
My 115 came in a paper covered case similarly the one yours is in. I didn't think it was original to the machine because the machine is a "treadle style."

Did the 127 128 115 come new in those cases with motors or were they put in cases when their cabinet was needed for a newly bought machine? I am definitely looking at the case differently.

My 115 has most of the paper loose and moldyish on the underside of the paper. Are there techniques to salvage the paper. Or do you just recover the box?

I suspect that that isn't the original case - were they making that type in 1918? In any event, I consider that type of case to be disposable, interchangeable, and usually repairable. This one is actually in pretty good shape, BUT what I'll probably do is junk the cover like I did with the Toyota's (much farther gone) case, so the machine will display nicely. Then I'll probably re-Tolex the base, although I actually painted the one for the Toyota. With that said, the Tolex that's on it now doesn't look that bad.

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Mkwatts

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Reply with quote  #12 
The black case looks good with the machine. Especially those nice decals. I have the same machine but the decals are nowhere close to the ones on your machine! It is fun to look forward to working on it.

Could I ask what is Tolex? Is it available for sale from somewhere. I was thinking of looking for a black wallpaper and building or recovering some boxes to display my treadle type machines. Thanks.
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Reply with quote  #13 
A lot of my machines come with those paper coverings that are all chewed up, separating or moldy. I use warm water to soften the old hide glue and strip them down with a scraper, then dry them and sand them, making any repairs and filling where the rivets for the old, cheap and rusty latches used to be. Those are generally not reusable, and most were broken years ago due to poor design (the ones with the little catch tit that always breaks off) or just cheap steel cheaply plated so the plating peels off. Where needed, I also reinforce the case wood. 

What I do is recover them with cloth and Mod Podge Gloss, then give them a coat of Rustoleum Stone texture paint, then clear coat or paint them to get the color I want. I then put modern nickel plated latch hardware on them and chrome or nickel plated clam shell handles on each end. 

Often the case top is gone, only the broken or worn out case base present, so I rebuild the base and make a new plywood top out of 1/4" plywood but use 1/2" ply for the end pieces. 

They make really nice cases when done, and can be painted to match the machine. Case in point is the rebuilt base and home-made top I did for my Shopgoodwill Brother Super Selectomatic 100. SGW photo shows it as purchased, then my photos of it when done.  2. Brother 100 front.jpg  3. Brother 100 end view.jpg  13. Home made case top, rebuilt base 1.jpg  14. Home made case top, rebuilt base 2.jpg 

-Bruce 1. Shopgoodwill photo - as purchased-filthy, case base damaged.jpg 

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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkwatts
Could I ask what is Tolex? Is it available for sale from somewhere. I was thinking of looking for a black wallpaper and building or recovering some boxes to display my treadle type machines. Thanks.

Tolex is that stuff used to cover musical instrument cases - everything from French Horn cases to Rock band amplifiers and speakers. I got mine from a speaker supply house - I put it on with hot hide glue. Tough as nails, and you can get it in all sorts of colors/patterns these days. Mine's a red/black snakeskin look. Here's one project I used it on:

http://www.doubleveil.net/zssmp/99k.htm

And another:

http://www.doubleveil.net/zssmp/base.htm

I think I have enough to re-do this base (the 127's) as well. Heck, maybe I'll put it on the Toyota's base while I'm at it if I have enough (I just painted that one, and junked the top).

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Mkwatts

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Reply with quote  #15 
Ahhh! That is perfect. Thanks. Are smaller rolls available?

That snakeskin is handsome! Much better than moldy and peely.
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #16 
Beats me - I just bought a pile of it a few years ago because I could. Of course, that now means I have multiple bases with the same look!

Then again, it matches my CZ-75:

cz-with-SM.jpg 


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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #17 
Zorba, my CZ-70 goes with my Pfaff 31.   OT, sorry.
100_2031.jpg

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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #18 
HA! Firearms and Sewing Machines go together like peas and carrots! Cool picture.
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #19 
Gorgeous grips on your CZ machine, and a perfect match to your sm machine base.  I haven't recovered an entire base & cover, but I have done a lot of gluing of tattered corners and edges.
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #20 
"Cool hand" G10 grips - EVERYBODY who sees them or tries my pistol loves them! The match was a complete accident, but when I noticed, I had to take the picture. You know, it just occurred to me that I have another pistol that "probably" matches another of my machines - hmmmm....
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #21 
I'm anxiously waiting to see the caliber of your resto work on the 127...

hee hee

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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #22 
FUN-NY GUY! Hopefully it won't be a bomb...
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HelenAnn

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Reply with quote  #23 
When you do find the spring for the lamp how do you put it on or take it off. That step has confounded me for years. Even the Bakelite cylinder ones have a couple of those springs.  I will dig through my box of lights and motors to see if I have what your looking for. 
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #24 
I did want to mention that even though I know full well what Zorba's getting for xmas... I'm feeling a little anticipation here as well.  Can't wait to see this machine  all spruced up and sewing away. =)
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #25 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HelenAnn
When you do find the spring for the lamp how do you put it on or take it off. That step has confounded me for years. Even the Bakelite cylinder ones have a couple of those springs.  I will dig through my box of lights and motors to see if I have what your looking for. 

The spring just kinda lays there - the lens goes in, push down and turn.

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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #26 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim/Steelsewing
I did want to mention that even though I know full well what Zorba's getting for xmas... I'm feeling a little anticipation here as well.  Can't wait to see this machine  all spruced up and sewing away. =)

Me too. I'm supposedly getting a set of Tarot cards as well.

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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #27 
I am *FINALLY* starting to work on this one - just in time for that weird National to show up. First problem: hinge pin retaining screws are missing. Anyone know offhand what they are? Something standard I hope, something oddball I fear...
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #28 
15/64-28
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pgf

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Reply with quote  #29 
If they're the same as those in a 1906 15-30, I may have a pair.  I'll check.
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WI Lori

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Reply with quote  #30 
Sew Classic sells/sold them.
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #31 
Sew classic doesn't seem to have them now, PGF, that would be great! Farmer John, thanx for the data, I may need it!

AND...

In other news, the bakelite motor housing is cracked. BZ10-8, if anyone has one laying about. If not, I can get them on eBay easily enough. I'm guessing not the original motor from 1918, perhaps a replacement or a handcrank upgrade sometime later.

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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #32 
I'll have to look, might have a BZ10-8, maybe.
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #33 
The next question - what is the size of the faceplate screw? Looks like a fine pitch #6 to me...
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #34 
Initial pass cleaning is done, the orange oil works wonders! Have one spot that I'm soaking to see if I can get some discoloration off, but otherwise I'm not going to clean further. Surface has very fine crazing as you'd expect after 108 years.
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Farmer John

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Reply with quote  #35 
Zorba, the face plate screw is 9/64-40, same as the presser foot clamp screw and the screw that holds the round rear inspection hole cover.  9/64-40 is very close to #6-40, give or take  .002"
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #36 
Thanx FJ. One of the fp screws was broken off, and I'd like to replace it. I'll try a #6-40, hopefully tapping tolerances work in my favor!
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #37 
Pretty sure I found a motor! Will send you a picture once I get it un-buried. =)

IMG_4623.jpg 


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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #38 
Does anyone know the differences between these motors? There's several other BZ series motors that look pretty much the same as this one.
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #39 
I decided to replace the light as well. It needed new wires soldered into it, which isn't a problem - I more than know my way around a soldering iron. BUT - it was one of those hotter than Hell spot lights, AND it was missing its lens, so I bought a brand new "SingerLight" - the horizontal kind - to replace it. Wow. run-on sentence alert! That gives me a spare bulb for my 185K which also has one of the spotlights.
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Jim/Steelsewing

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Reply with quote  #40 
*Not to mention that a new Singerlight keeps you from having to mess with those insane lock rings. Always a plus. =)
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*QuiltnNan and asshat may be synonymous...
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #41 
I didn't really have any problems with them, but it isn't the greatest light fixture. SingerLight mo' bettah. I don't think anybody likes the spotlight.
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NDNavy

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Reply with quote  #42 
Speaking of the lock-rings.... what is the trick to removing those without messing up the bakelite on the light housing? Does anybody use a special tool that they have invented? I think I struggle more with those than any other part of the machines I work on.
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WI Lori

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Reply with quote  #43 
There is a compression spring separator tool (not official term) that works well. The trick is to grind flat the snipped edges of the rings before reinstalling, which makes assembly much easier.
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Lori in Wisconsin
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Reply with quote  #44 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WI Lori
There is a compression spring separator tool (not official term) that works well. The trick is to grind flat the snipped edges of the rings before reinstalling, which makes assembly much easier.


Could you PM me a picture of the tool that you are talking about?  I need to get one.....
Thanks!
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WI Lori

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Reply with quote  #45 
I can't get a photo right now. DH says it is a snap-ring pliers. There are several different types, inside, outside, flattened, pointy, ones that when you squeeze the handles, the jaws expand. DH believes the ones he used were inside, flattened, with the above mentioned squeeze mechanism.
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Bags

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Reply with quote  #46 
Zorba, can't wait to see the Sphinx when you're finished!

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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #47 
Its coming, motor and light are both here. Just need to find a couple of minutes to rub together to put them on. This weekend, Goddess willing...
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #48 
Motor and light installed, machine more-or-less cleaned, oiled everything in sight, then ran it at about half speed for 20 minutes to smooth out a very slight tightness I was feeling. Said tightness is now gone! Sounds really nice! This picture was actually taken while the machine was running:
sphinx.jpg 


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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #49 
I tried to edit the above, and everything was coming out underlined! In any event, there is an oil reservoir under the front slide that has a weep hole to oil the shuttle. The "yarn" or whatever packing was in it is gone - what should I use? A bit of cotton flannel stuffed in?
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WI Lori

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Reply with quote  #50 
I believe no packing required, but it is important to make sure the weep hole is actually open. (If memory serves me correctly on point A.)

BTW, the Sphynx is looking good!

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