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AnnF

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Reply with quote  #1 
Hey Guys.

I got a 2 spool western electric last year, and still am pondering how to do the rewire of its motor and pedal.

It came in the wooden case with a swing out Western Electric motor, and well, thought I've redone more recent pedals, I keep freezing as I look at the huge amount of duct tape on the old, and that the connection seems to be spliced in the middle...

Anyone have a good guide on these swing out motor rewire?

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J Miller

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Reply with quote  #2 
Those motors are very simple, nothing complicated about them.    The only thing I'd say is that the metal is fragile.   I've yet to see one that isn't cracked somewhere.    The one I've done so far require repair with epoxy around the bolt holes of the end caps.
Go easy when R&R'ing them and tightening the little cap screws.

Joe

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Rodney

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Reply with quote  #3 
Ignore the duct tape.  You're going to be cutting all that off when you replace the wires anyway. [smile]
If you want to keep the motor and controller looking authentic Sundialwire.com sells cloth covered wire.
Rodney
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #4 
Yep, if it looks like this, get rid of ALL the wire and use new:

sewmatic-19.jpg  sewmatic-20.jpg 


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J Miller

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Reply with quote  #5 
What Zorba said ^^ above.


Not only is the wiring in his pic bad, the wiring job was jury rigged and I wouldn't have trusted it one bit.

Joe

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Visit our Etsy store for pet related goodies and other items too.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/TBearsAndOtherWares?ele=shop_open

I love the old iron and wood machines. They're solid and reliable.
JM in FT Wayne, IN

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AnnF

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Posts: 26
Reply with quote  #6 
The problem I have is the triangle of taped wires in the middle. No kenmore or singer plug to do the connection through.

I got a terminal box to make a safer connection, but cannot decide upon a housing. There is a chicago wiring cap screw, but it is too small.
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Zorba

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Reply with quote  #7 
Think about this:

New line cord into controller, another (new) cord leaves controller and goes to motor. I don't know what the logistics are of having 2 cords entering/exiting your controller - but if that works in your situation, you'll have a nice, neat wiring job without any weirdnesses anywhere. Controller wires in series with the hot line, the neutral is just passed through.

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